Taitung Private Tour Day 2: Immersing In Lovely Sights @Taimali 台东包车游第二天:太美丽的太麻里

After visiting 2 of the most beautiful academic institutions in Taiwan, we proceeded down south to Taimali Township, also known as the “Village of Sunrise”. Situated in the southeastern part of Taitung County, the rural township is populated mainly by the Paiwan indigenous people. Its original Paiwan name is “Ja bau li”, which means “where the sun rises”. Blessed with splendid views of the east coast, mountains and Taitung plain, Taimali gained recognition as it was where the millennium sun rays first shed in Taiwan. Thereafter, it earned its reputation of being the Sunrise Township.

走访了全台最美的国小以及图书馆后,我们继续往南走,到号称“日升之乡”的太麻里乡游玩。位于台东县东南端的太麻里乡以排湾族居多,原来的名称“Ja.Bau.Li!”在排湾语里有“太阳升起的地方”的意思。本乡的地理位置极为独特,东临太平洋,位于中央山脉和大武山麓下,山多平地少,因此坐拥优美的风景线。 在公元2000年一月一日,太麻里海滩举办了一场千禧迎曙光音乐会之后就声名大噪,被誉为台湾的“日升之乡”。

Our first stop at Taimali was the pristine beach in the township, known as Shu Guang Park (which means sunrise park in Chinese). The seaside park became famous because it was the place where Taiwan received the first ray of sunlight on 1 January 2000, aka the start of the millennium. Since then, the seaside park hosts the annual new year countdown event here, an iconic event for Taiwanese to welcome the new year from the Sunrise Township.

太麻里的第一站也就是千禧曙光纪念园区的海滩。因为是台湾迎接第一道曙光的地方而让大家知道它的存在,并吸引许多游客的慕名而来。自2000年以后,这里每年举办的跨年活动也成为台湾一年一度的盛会。

太麻里千禧曙光紀念園區

At the memorial park, visitors can find walking trails, little huts to take a breather, & even beach volleyball courts, alongside the commemorative wall & art displays to remember the special millennium event back in 2000. Despite being such a famous attraction in Taitung, there was hardly anyone along the pristine beach when we were there. But we had a short chat with an old chatty uncle at the little hut, who told us he was already 103 years old & had been staying nearby for a long time. Apparently, he was a retired soldier from China who came to settle down in Taimali.

纪念园区内的设施除了有散步步道,休憩亭台,甚至还有沙滩排球场,以及曙光纪念强和曙光纪念碑。虽然贵为著名景点,我们到访的那个早上却没什么人。但是有一位高龄103岁的老伯伯坐在休憩亭台里与我们聊了几句。他看起来身体硬朗,也很健谈,除了很自豪地告诉我们他的岁数之外,也透露他就住附近。原来,他是从中国来的退役老兵,在太麻里养老。

蔚蓝的天空·清澈的海水·阳光普照的一天~真棒!

So thankful for the unexpected bright & sunny day, so that we could take clear pictures of the awesome sea view in different shades of blue. While taking a leisurely stroll along the cool beach, we spotted a mountain in the background (see photo in the bottom right side of above collage)  covered by a sea of fluffy clouds. Mr Wang said that would be our next destination for the day – Daylily Mountain, about half an hour drive up the mountain (around 1,000 m above sea level).

很感谢老天爷出乎意料地放晴,让我们可以拍到清澈蔚蓝的海水中的多种色调。在沙滩散步时,看到远处的山峦(以上图片的右下角)被一层云海覆盖。汪先生透露,我们下一个景点就是往那里(金针山)去,大概半个小时的车程(海拔1,000 公尺左右)。

Word of caution: the drive up the mountain, while not through extremely steep terrain, could prove to be somewhat nauseating for those who are prone to motion sickness. So don’t try to read, surf net or message with your mobile on the uphill ride or you may feel dizzy. I decided to let my eyes rest & close them after a while for fear of throwing up. Luckily it was just a 30-min ride, & we soon reached Qing Shan Farm, or Green Mountain Farm (direct translation from its Chinese name) where we would tuck into a hearty lunch. 😉

温馨提醒:上山的路程,虽然不是太陡峭,但如果你容易晕车,请切记不要看书本或查看手机,不然极可能会感到不舒服。因为怕会晕车,我索性把眼睛闭上,休息一阵。幸好车程只约30分钟,很快就抵达青山农场享用丰盛的午餐。

Green Mountain Farm

Above photo is Green Mountain Farm’s main reception cum restaurant area. We placed our order for a 2-pax set lunch (500 TWD, ~S$23.35) which comprised of 4 dishes & 1 soup, all prepared using fresh farm produce.

上图为青山农场的招待处及餐厅。我们点了双人套餐(台币500元):四菜一汤,全以农场的新鲜食材烹煮。

四菜一汤,美味丰盛的午餐

The soup of the day was the clear Daylily soup mixed with cabbage, while the 4 dishes were pan-seared fish fillet, stir-fried cabbage, fried river prawns and boiled chicken meat, served with healthy mixed red rice. All dishes were prepared using natural seasoning with no artificial flavouring or MSG, which I liked! Great to have a hearty lunch with all natural farm produce that didn’t leave us feeling thirsty. It was my first time eating Daylily petals, but personally I found it didn’t really have much taste, except it was quite crunchy. The chicken meat was tender & delicious. Loved the pan-seared fish filet too which tasted somewhat like Teriyaki-style fish. The prawns were tiny but my friend said they were crispy.

当日的例汤是清甜的金针汤(配高丽菜),而四道菜分别为:蒲烧鱼片,现炒时蔬(高丽菜),酥炸溪虾,和水晶油鸡。米饭则是百米配营养丰富的红米。所有菜肴都没有使用味精或经加工的调味料烹煮,所以很合我意!饱餐一顿后也不会觉得口渴。第一次尝金针花,觉得没什么味道,只是很有嚼劲。水晶油鸡真的鸡如其名,晶莹剔透以外,很嫩滑甜美。蒲烧鱼片感觉像日式的红烧口味。溪虾看起来好小,但朋友说很爽脆。

After a satisfying lunch, as we walked out of the restaurant to take a stroll around the farm compounds, we spotted pictorial maps of the farm near the entrance as well as unique orchids. The farm looked huge, & there were several sections for different types of flowers such as cherry, apricot, daylily & hydrangea where visitors could enjoy the blossoms at various times of the year. June to July is the season for hydrangea bloom.

饱餐一顿后,在踏出餐厅的当儿,从地图发现原来农场这么大。靠近地图的地方也摆设了特别的兰花,很漂亮。农场分几个区块,种植各式各样的花卉,如樱花、杏花、金针花和绣球花等,供游人一年到头都能在不同花开季节欣赏美景。绣球花开季节是每年的6至7月份。

Not the Daylily blossom season (Aug) yet, but we saw the half-blooming flowers just outside the restaurant 金针花开季节是8月份,但我们在餐厅外就”抢先“看到半开的金针花卉 😄

Time to walk off some calories & admire the beautiful blooming flowers at the hydrangea section. The long stretch of violet, blue, pink & yellow hydrangea formed a picturesque sea of blossoms.

吃得这么饱,也该活动一下,消耗一些卡路里,赏花去吧!走了一小段路,就看到眼前这一幕迷人、色彩缤纷的绣球花海。

Thereafter, we moved up a gentle slope to the bamboo forest. The scene that greeted us ahead made me feel I had stepped into a period drama or the Kungfu Panda movie. 😛

之后,我们再往山坡上行,来到了一片幽静的竹林。看到这一片茂密的竹林,让我即刻想到武侠片里的场景,还有电影”功夫熊猫“,哈哈……

I can so imagine Kungfu Panda zooming around here 😄 脑海突然浮现”功夫熊猫“在这里耍功夫的画面……

On our way out of the farm compounds, we were fortunate enough to catch the huge fluffy clouds, so enchanting! The phenomenon made us feel like we were walking on cloud (nine) hehe.

就在要离开农场的当儿,我们很幸运地欣赏到一朵朵漂亮云朵覆盖眼前的山峦。这一刻,仿佛我们就漫步在云端上!

Last stop in Taimali was none other than Duoliang Station, touted as the most beautiful railway station in Taiwan.

在太麻里乡的最后一站是全台最美的火车站—— 多良火车站

Located at the southern tip of Taimali Township, Duoliang Station had ceased passenger service since 1 July 2006 due to lack of ridership. This was 1 of the stations along the southern railway line, where we passed by on the slow train from Fangliao to Taitung. Built on a slope, the 2-storey station has the platform on level 2, where passengers could look out to the crystal blue Pacific Ocean. Coupled with the bright red barrier gates along the platform, the panoramic view at Duoliang Station is so mesmerising it has attracted lots of railway fans. Indeed, the view was awesome, especially on a bright & sunny day like the day we visited. This sort of made up for the disappointment I had when I didn’t manage to take proper photos of the enchanting view while on the slow train the other day.

位于太麻里乡的南端,多良火车站原为台铁南迴线的招呼站,自2006年7月1日起因业务清淡而结束旅客业务。我们从枋寮到台东的普快车也有经过这个车站。建于山坡的车站有两层楼,站在二楼的岸式月台上,游客可以鸟瞰太平洋。月台上的鲜红色栏杆加上清澈碧绿的海洋,这幅迷人的风景因此吸引许许多多的铁道迷前来朝圣。老实说,景色真的是很撩人,特别是在晴天。能在艳阳天到访多良车站,也算是弥补了我的一个小遗憾吧,因为那天搭乘普快车时,天空下着绵绵细雨,也来不及好好拍下经过最美的车站的景象。

Finally able to take a proper photo of this view!

The popularity of this station was evident from the throngs of visitors we saw, as well as big groups of tourists being led by tour guides to the so-called best lookout spots. To get superb views for photo-taking, we had to “fight” & standby prime spots prior to the arrival of trains (check the train schedules from the board).

车站的受欢迎程度可以从源源不绝的访客人数看出端倪,而且还能看到不少旅游巴士载送游客到这里下车,还有导游领队解说。为了要从最佳位置拍下最美的照片,我们也得先查看列车到站时间,然后霸住最好的位子等待。稍微慢一点,最佳照相地点可能就得不到了。😄

The gentle slope leading to Duoliang Station entrance

The 4-hour tour in Taimali Township ended as we left Duoliang Station. Despite not having planned Taimali into our itinerary initially, it was a fruitful visit to the Sunrise Township. At least we could get up close to the crystal clear beach on a clear day, taste daylily for the 1st time, tuck into a wholesome lunch, & make a trip to Taiwan’s most beautiful railway station! It was certainly a lovely half day in Taimali to add to my awesome travel memories. 🙂

离开多良火车站后,我们的太麻里半日游也就告一段落了。纵使太麻里乡并没在原先的日程里,但这还是一个充实的半日游。至少我们能在晴天在迷人的海滩散步,品尝金针花,享用营养美味的午餐,也正式拜访全台最美的火车站!这一趟太美丽的太麻里之旅真是不枉此行!:)

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