Taitung Private Tour: Beinan Township Once Again 台东包车游:卑南乡之上山涉水篇

As our base in Taitung County was Taitung City, & Beinan Township is neighbour to the county’s capital, we made several stops in the rural township throughout our 3-day private tour. You may remember that we had visited a number of charming spots in the township on the first day of our road trip. We also visited 2 other sights on the following 2 days, which I will write more below:

由于我们在台东市的旅店入住3晚,而卑南乡就毗邻台东市,所以这次的台东行游览了好几个卑南乡的景点。在包车游的头一天里,我们已经到卑南乡山里走一回了。在接下来的两天里,我们也走访了以下两个景点:

1. Dingyanwan-Sige Mountain 顶岩湾四格山

After a half-day tour to several lovely sights in Taimali Township in the southeastern part of the county, it was still pretty early to call it a day. Mr Wang had initially thought of bringing us to Beinan Cultural Park before we head back to hotel. But we weren’t too keen, so he decided to drive us to Dingyanwan-Sige Mountain, where we would take a leisurely climb up for panoramic views of Taitung.

在美丽的太麻里乡游玩了大半天之后,时间还挺早的,只是下午3时许。汪先生向我们提议到卑南文化公园游览,之后才会旅店休息。但我们对传统文化与历史没多大兴趣,因此他决定载我们上顶岩湾四格山,鸟瞰台东全景。

Dingyanwan-Sige Mountain Trail

Sige Mountain stands at an altitude of 410 metres tall, not exactly high compared to many other mountains in Taiwan. Nonetheless, it stands out amongst its towering siblings because it is one of the rare independent summits that allows visitors to view Taitung from all angles, i.e. 360 degrees. However, it is not frequented by tourists as large tour coaches will have difficulty getting through the narrow agricultural roads to the start of the mountain trail. Sige Mountain was designated as a military base during the Japanese Occupation.

位于台东卑南乡槟榔村顶岩湾的四格山比起台湾其他许多的山并不高,只有410公尺。但由于它属少见的全景独立山头,访客可以在山顶上以全方位的角度远眺台东优美的风景。它也是台东平原的制高点,在日治时期也被划为军事基地。虽然这里的风景这么赞,但由于前往四格山的道路并不好走,要通过狭小的产业道路才可抵达,一般大型旅游巴士都不会带观光客上去。因此这里也算是只有在地人才比较会探访的“秘境”吧。:)

To ascend to the summit, visitors need to climb about 240 steps of wooden trail, as seen in photo above. Mr Wang mentioned that the path up the mountain was made much easier because of the construction of this trail, which would bring visitors up the slightly steep terrain. City dwellers like us ascended with difficulty, & by the time we reached the summit, we were almost breathless. 😛 However, the view we got after a tiring climb (for our knees) was certainly a rewarding one! See some of the photos I took below. 😉

要登上山顶,就得爬上约240个阶梯的人行栈道(上图所见)。汪先生说自从建了这条栈道,登山客要攀上地形陡斜的四格山已方便许多。但对我们这种城市人来说,攀爬都长的阶梯一点也不轻松。上到山顶时,我们已气喘如牛,😄。不过,眼前的绝佳景色让我们暂忘了膝盖的酸痛!

A view of the Rift Valley Plain

Unparalleled view of Dulan Mountain & Beinan River

Panoramic shot of the view at the summit

The sky was getting a little overcast as we arrived at the summit, but the views up here were still so cool. It was said that on bright clear days, one would be able to see as far as the Green Island & Lanyu Island. Despite not being able to see so far out, we were still happy with the impressive 360-degree views of the beautiful county surrounded by Rift Valley plain, Dulan mountain, Beinan River & even the Pacific Ocean. NB: don’t forget your insect repellent before climbing up to the mountain summit, especially during hot summer days!

其实,抵达山顶时,天空已开始乌云密布,但也丝毫掩盖不了台东360度风景宜人的景观。听说在晴天时,访客甚至能远眺台东县外岛 —— 绿岛及兰屿。纵使我们无法看到这么远的景色,还是很高兴能欣赏到台东平原、都兰山、卑南溪和太平洋的无敌壮丽美景。

2. Fushan Fish Recovery Area 富山復魚區

Located in Beinan Township’s Shanyuan beach, Fushan Fish Recovery Area is Taitung’s one & only manmade beach open for swimming. In the past, Fushan sea was home to abundant supply of seafood, but marine life was severely disrupted due to excessive fishing. This not only affected the livelihoods of the fishermen, but also reduced the recreational value in the region. Because of this, fishing was banned in the Fushan Fish Recovery Area since 2005. Initially, conservation efforts created some inconvenience for the fishermen at Fushan, but overtime, the marine life population began to thrive outside of Fushan. In addition, the area also attracted lots of tourists from different parts of the world, boasting tourism figures & thereby the income of locals. Sounds like a win-win situation for everyone through establishing the Fushan Fish Recovery Area to help sustain the marine ecological community. 🙂

富山復魚區位于卑南乡的杉原潮间带,是台东唯一的海水浴场。早期,富山海域的渔类资源丰富,但因过度渔捞,海域生态受到严重的破坏。这不止影响了渔民的生计,也使游乐价值降低。因此,自2005年开始,这个海水浴场封为禁渔区,成为东海岸潮间带生态丰富的海岸景点。虽然禁渔区成立初期,造成渔民的生活不便,但禁渔区外的鱼群资源也随着鱼类栖息地的保护增多。除此之外,富山復魚區也为当地带来来自世界各地的观光人潮,从而增加了当地居民的收入来源。看来成立富山復魚區是个双赢的决策,使海洋资源能够永续发展。

Buy the huge bun to feed the fishes at Fushan Fish Recovery Area

We were brought to this fish reserve on the third day of our private tour. Much as we dreaded, it was another rainy wet day as we set out to the various coastal attractions along the east coast. We bought a huge long bun (can’t remember exact price but I think it was about 25 TWD, ~S$1.15) from the friendly lady boss to feed the fishes in the fish reserve. Initially, the lady boss thought we wanted to buy 1 bun each to feed the fishes. But our driver guide for the day – Ah Wei, told her we would share 1 as we wouldn’t have time to stay here too long, plus the fishes were already too fat, so better not let them eat so much haha.

到富山復魚區游玩是包车游第三天的早上。当天的天气又再次下起绵绵细雨,很无奈,但也得硬着头皮继续探索东海岸的各处美景。我们向亲切的店家买了一个好大的喂鱼馒头(上图所见,大概台币25元)要去潮间带喂鱼。本来,老板娘以为我们要一人一个馒头去体验喂鱼的乐趣。但这一天的司机导游 —阿伟告诉我们鱼儿都被喂得太肥了,而今天的行程满档,不要在这里浪费太多时间比较好,😄。

Fushan Fish Recovery Area 富山復魚區 (潮间带)

The minute we went near the sea holding the bun, we could see many fishes swimming towards us. Indeed they were quite plump (if you can see from the photo above) haha. It was quite fun seeing the fishes fighting over the bits of bun we threw into the sea. Spotted a young father with his little son in tow having fun feeding the fishes too. Bet this is a family-friendly activity for those with little ones in tow to consider!

我们一抵达海边,鱼儿看到我们手上拿着馒头,立即朝我们迎面而来。的确如阿伟所说,它们还蛮胖的哈哈。看到鱼群为了我们丢入海里的馒头粒而忙得不可开交的那一幕还挺有趣的。在海边的一端有一对父子喂鱼也喂得很开心的样子。感觉来到潮间带游玩,会是一项蛮不错的亲子活动哦!

Although we had visited a total of 5 Beinan Township sights for the entire 3-day tour in Taitung, there are still many more notable attractions such as Zhiben Hot Springs & Liji Badlands that we didn’t have time to check out in the southeastern region of Taiwan. The township comprises 13 villages & we had merely touched the “tip of the iceberg”. Hence, I certainly will love to return again & get to know the hometown of A-mei even better!

台东包车游的三天里,我们游览了5处卑南乡的景点。听起来好像游遍了卑南乡,但其实本乡还有许多景点我们没时间去,比如知本温泉、利吉恶地等位于台湾东南方的著名地标。整个乡总共有13个村落,要慢慢探索才能看到更多更美的卑南乡景点。下次到台东,希望能更深入了解A*Mei张惠妹的家乡!

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