Taitung Private Tour Day 3: Soaking In Chenggong Township’s Wonders (I) 台东包车游第三天:成功镇热门、私房打卡景点通杀(I)

On the final day (day 3) of our Taitung private tour, we had originally planned for the dolphin cruise in the morning, after which our driver guide A-Wei drive us to the scenic spots along the East Coast National Scenic Area to eventually arrive at Hualien City. However, due to unexpected bad weather conditions, the dolphin cruise was cancelled. So instead of only picking us up in the afternoon, we started the tour in the morning like the first 2 days. After a short but fun time at Fushan Fish Recovery Area feeding the fishes, we proceeded up north to Chenggong Township.

原先安排在台东包车游的最后一天(第三天)去成功港口搭乘赏鲸船,之后司机导游阿伟会开车带我们一路沿着东海岸线北上玩到花莲市结束行程。但因梅雨季的缘故,赏鲸船被迫取消,所以我们当天就像前两天一样早上出发。在富山復魚區喂鱼后,我们就沿着台11线北上成功镇

Located in the northeastern part of Taitung County, Chenggong is a coastal urban township facing the Pacific Ocean, home to the largest fishery port in Taitung. Originally an Amis settlement, it was known as Shinkō Town during Japanese rule (which means Xingang – “new harbour” in Chinese). After 1945, to avoid confusion with Chiayi County’s Xingang Township, it was renamed to Chenggong.

成功镇位于台东县东北部,东临太平洋,也是台东最大及重要的渔港的所在地。直至清朝末年此地为阿美族人聚落的地方,在日治时代名为“新港”,1945年战后更名为“成功”,部分原因是为了避免与嘉义县的“新港”混淆。

Our first stop in Chenggong was a scenic spot near the Shi Yusan Scenic Area (literal translation: stone umbrella). As it was pouring quite heavily, A-Wei didn’t want to bring us right to the 1-km long coastal region where we could get up close to the natural rock formations, as it would be quite slippery & dangerous. Nonetheless, the view from a distance was pretty amazing:

在成功的第一站是临近石雨伞风景区的观景台。由于雨势相当大,地面湿滑,为了安全起见,阿伟不带我们下去海岸近距离欣赏长达一公里左右石灰石隆起的海蚀岩柱。不过,从远处看过去,景观还是很壮丽:

If you look closely at the above collage, you can see the “stone umbrella” rock formations, although tiny, in the top left pic. Somehow, I am always in awe when I see the amazing works of Mother Nature. A pity we couldn’t get up close to these natural wonders, but while there weren’t any natural stone umbrellas to marvel at, we got a pic taken of the man-made umbrellas we were holding onto while admiring the coastal scenery in the rain. 😉

仔细看左上图,你是否看得到幼小的石雨伞自然景观呢?我常常都对奥妙的大自然景象很惊叹。既然没能近距离观赏这奥妙的石雨伞形状,就以下图呈现这幅海岸线的另一面吧😄。

无法近距离欣赏石雨伞,就欣赏我们手持雨伞的景象吧。😄

Thereafter, we drove to a picturesque beach with hardly any tourists – Duli Beach. I accidentally discovered this beach when researching for Taitung hidden scenic spots online & decided it’s too awesome to give it a miss. Even when A-Wei already told us that we might have to miss some planned destinations today due to wet weather at the beginning of the tour, I told him I definitely wouldn’t want to miss Duli Beach.

然后,我们开车前往一个迷人但鲜少游客知晓的海域 —— 都歷沙滩。我是在机缘巧合下在网上看到都歷沙滩这处台东私房景点而被它深深吸引。在出发前,阿伟就已经提醒我们当天天气不佳,我们无法所有预订行程都走完,但我还是告诉他我一定不要错过都歷沙滩。

要到都歷传统海域。下车后还要穿过一堆草丛(产业道路)才会到

A-Wei mentioned the sand here is extremely soft & fine, & encouraged us to remove our footwear to feel it for ourselves. I’m usually not the “adventurous” type, but decided to give it a go anyway. So glad I heeded his advice. Unlike other beaches that I had been to, the sand at Duli Beach was really fine & didn’t stick to the feet, so nice to walk on it barefooted! Despite the sky being overcast & we didn’t witness the different hues of blue of the ocean, the entire atmosphere was simply fantastic.

终于抵达都歷传统海域了,阿伟建议我们把鞋子脱了,去感受一下都歷的沙是多么的柔软和细致。通常,我会抗拒这么做,因为不想弄脏脚板,但想到难得来到这里游玩,就试试看吧。果然,沙粒真的很细致,一点也不粘脚,不像其他的沙滩一样,踩上去会感觉不舒服。沙滩也没有任何垃圾,赤脚踩水挺好玩的。纵使天空灰蒙蒙的,下着细雨,欣赏不到蔚蓝天空及深浅分明的海域,整体的氛围还是好棒!

漫步在细滑的沙滩上,聆听令人感觉舒心的海浪声

We walked a little further away from the beach entrance towards the forest, & also found the sight in front of us mesmerizing. Not only does Duli Beach have a fine sandy beach, crystal clear water with soothing sounds of the waves, the lush green forest & misty Coastal Mountain Range in the background also adds to its exquisite charm. So happy I insisted on visiting Duli the hidden gem! 😀

走着走着,我们走到离入口有一点距离的树林,眼前的这一幕也很迷人。都歷传统海域不止有细致干净的沙滩,清澈的海水配以舒心的海浪声,还有翠绿的树林、远处迷蒙的海岸山脉,让它更具独特的魅力。庆幸我坚持要到都歷一游!🙂

Beautiful swampland
万绿丛中一点红

Enroute to Chenggong Fishing Port, A-Wei made a slight detour from Provincial Highway 11 into a small road right next to the Pacific Ocean. He mentioned that this was another hidden gem that even locals might not know so we could take some quick shots of the magnificent scenery.

在前往成功渔港的路上,阿伟从台11线绕道去太平洋旁的一条隐秘的小路。他说,这是另一个很少人知道的私房景点,就连在地人也未必会走这条路,所以是个拍下优美风景的好地方。

Indeed, for the short period we were there, there was no other car except ours. We could even pose for quirky shots in the middle of the road. It felt as if it were a road built solely for us! Hehe

的确,我们在这儿下车拍照的时间,根本没有其他人或车辆。在马路中央尽情摆pose也不是大问题。整条马路好像就是属于我们的!

Shortly after, we arrived at downtown of Chenggong, where we stopped for some silky smooth beancurd made from non-GMO soy beans. At Chenggong Soybean Shop, this homely dessert place sells any soybean desserts you could think of, be it in the form of beancurd, with barley or in shaved ice. From November to April every year, customers can also request for a bowl of hot beancurd instead of the usual cold dessert.

不一会儿,我们就抵达成功市区,暂时歇息吃碗以非基因改造黄豆制成的香滑豆花。在成功豆花,你想吃什么豆花类甜品,几乎都能找到,如豆花类、薏仁类及刨冰类。每年的11月至4月,顾客也能在下午2点后品尝到热豆花。

成功豆花顺滑味美

I chose to add speckled kidney beans to my bowl of bean curd (30 TWD, ~S$1.40) as it was a summer special edition. It was my first time trying speckled kidney beans, but I thought it tasted similar to red bean, just that you could find speckles on the bean, hence the name. The bean curd was silky smooth & texture was somewhat like Lao Ban Soya Beancurd in Singapore. Nice healthy snack before pigging out at Chenggong Fishing Port. 😉

我点的豆花选择加入花豆(台币30元),因老板娘说花豆是夏季限定。第一次品尝花豆,味道跟红豆类似,只是细看之下,能看到豆上面有花纹,所以叫花豆。豆花的口感跟新加坡的老伴豆花相似,很顺滑,是个健康美味的饭前甜点。

Located just a short walking distance from Chenggong Soybean Shop is Taitung’s largest fishing port – Chenggong Fishing Port. The port is blessed with abundant marine resources as it faces the Pacific Ocean with Oyashio and Kuroshio currents. Thus, the town’s economic structure is largely based on fishery.

离成功豆花走路不到10分钟,就是成功渔港了。由于背山面海,位于黑潮和亲潮两股暖流及寒流必经之地,成功渔港是东海岸渔获量相当丰富的渔港。因此,成功镇的经济架构主要来自渔产业。

Spectacular view at the fishing port, where we were supposed to board the dolphin cruise initially

Before we settled down for lunch, we took a short tour of the fish market by the port, where the fishermen were laying out their fresh catches that day for the auction at 2 pm. At Chenggong, the star catch is swordfish, although customers could also find other common catches such as skipjack tuna, dolphinfish, red snapper & tuna.

吃午饭前,我们先在渔市场逛一圈,看看渔民把新鲜捕捞的鱼排列整齐,为下午2点的拍卖做准备。成功渔港最具代表性的渔产是旗鱼,不过也能看到如鲣鱼、鬼头刀、红鲷鱼和鲔鱼等等。

After that, we sat down for lunch at Tao Jie Eatery, with “grandstand seats” as it was right behind the auction area, so we could witness the ongoing auction while waiting for our meal to be served. Who needs to wake up super early (or rather, have hardly any shut-eye time) to grab a ticket to the famed Tsukiji Fish Market tuna auction when you can actually enjoy the auction in comfort while having a sumptuous seafood lunch? 😅 It was interesting to witness the auction live in Hokkien, so one definitely wouldn’t forget one’s in Taiwan. 😛

逛完渔市场后,我们就坐在阿桃姐港边小吃摊位等着吃饭。刚好,坐下来的位子就在拍卖处的后面,可以一览无遗,边吃饭、边感受现场拍卖的气氛。有这么棒的位子,还能吃到新鲜的海鲜大餐,谁还需要七早八早摸黑起身,去日本东京著名的筑地市场抢票参观他们的鲔鱼拍卖啊?😅 拍卖过程以闽南语为沟通语言,对我这个外地人感觉特别有趣,因为我们一定不会忘记自己身在台湾,哈哈。

Scrumptious seafood lunch 丰盛的鲜鱼大餐

Soon, dishes for our 5-course lunch were served one after another, starting with (clockwise from top left) dried fish rice, fish soup, seasonal stir-fried vegetables, assorted sashimi & pan-fried fish. I couldn’t remember what fish were used for each dish, all I remembered was they were really fresh & tasty, given that they were fresh catches of the day. Guess how much this scrumptious lunch for 3 costed? 700 TWD (~S$32.65), including the thick 14 slices of sashimi where a plate costed only 100 TWD (~S$4.65)! Not only did it taste truly fresh & delicious, it was a real value deal! 😉

很快地,我们点的五道菜肴纷纷上桌,有(从左上角图片以顺时针方向):香喷喷的鱼干饭、鲜甜的鱼汤、清炒时蔬、生鱼片及煎鱼。不记得用的是什么鱼,只记得每一道鱼都很新鲜美味,因为是当天现捕的。猜猜这顿丰盛的鲜鱼大餐多少钱?3个人吃得超饱的,只需台币700元!而且,还包括切的厚厚的14片生鱼(台币100元)!午餐不止新鲜味美,还物超所值!😄

We left Chenggong Fishing Port, stomachs fully contented haha. Although I was disappointed with the cancellation of the dolphin cruise that morning, it was a blessing in disguise as we still managed to visit the port to check out its beautiful scenery, learn about the various types of fishes found here as well as enjoy a local seafood lunch. Ending this post with a photo of the unique port building in the shape of a ship. 🙂

离开成功渔港的时候,我们是超满足的。虽然因为赏鲸船的取消有一点小失望,但因祸得福,我们有较多时间游览成功镇,并来到渔港感受小镇风光,见识许多不同的鱼类,看到有趣的拍卖过程,以及享用道地的海鲜风味餐。就以特别的船型渔港大楼照片结束这篇文章吧。😀

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