Taipei Night Markets: Food Hunting Beyond Touristy Shilin & Raohe 台北夜市篇:品尝在观光客熟知的士林及饶河以外的美食

Taiwan is reputable for its vibrant night markets selling all sorts of yummylicious street food alongside fashion, game stalls etc. Just in Taipei alone there are at least 17 known night markets where you can feast & shop to your heart’s content. Tourists would typically be brought to Shilin or Raohe night markets as these are more familiar names on the tourist guide. Since it wasn’t our first time in Taipei, we wanted to try somewhere different for a more local flavour. Read on for a compilation of where we headed to for 2 nights in Taipei City, & our true reviews of the food we tried. 😉

很多人一想到台湾,就会联想到她那售卖各式各样街头美食,服饰等的热闹夜市。单单是台北市,就有至少17个较有知名度的夜市可以让人尽情地瞎拼和尝尽各种道地美食。多数观光客都会到士林或是饶河等旅游指南上介绍的著名观光夜市。但因为我们俩并非第一次到台北,因此这次想尝试比较多在地人前去的夜市。继续阅读我的文章就会知道我们在台北市的两个晚上,走访了哪些夜市,又品尝到哪些道地街头美食!

1. Linjiang Street (Tonghua) Night Market 臨江街觀光夜市

Linjiang Street Night Market entrance at the intersection of Linjiang Street & Tonghua Street
临江街观光夜市入口就在临江街及通化街的交叉口

Directions: From Xinyi Anhe Station (red Tamsui-Xinyi line), take exit 3, walk straight until you see Tonghua Street & turn right. Continue walking for around 5 min & Linjiang Street will become visible on the left.

交通方式:从信义安和捷运站(红色淡水-信义线)3号出口,直走直到通化街,然后右转。继续直走大概5分钟,就会看到临江街在左手边。

NB: We visited Linjiang on our first night in Taipei, right after a leisurely hike up Hushan, as the night market is about a 20-min direct bus journey from the hiking trail. From Fengtian Temple (near start point of Hushan hiking trail), we took bus 88 to Xinyi Tonghua Street Corner bus stop. Turn into Tonghua Street on the left & walk straight down till you see the night market.

:由于我们是在登上虎山后直接前往临江夜市,所以我们是从奉天宫外的巴士站直接乘搭88号巴士前往夜市,大概20分钟车程,直到信义通化街角的巴士站。下车后转左,然后直走就会看到夜市。

Linjiang Night Market is also known as Tonghua Night Market as it is located along the intersection of both streets. It is also touted as Taipei’s most local night market where one can get an authentic local experience without getting too far out of town in Da’an District. Indeed, it is a place where we spotted many locals tucking into delish food. The night market isn’t too big, just the full stretch of Linjiang Street. Here are the stalls we tried within 2 hours!

临江也可称为通化夜市,因为它就位于两条街的交叉口。很多人也说它是台北最道地的夜市,不必远离市区,就能在大安区边缘浅尝实在的在地风味。的确,这里好像真的比较多在地人光顾哦。夜市没有很大,就占据了整条临江街而已。以下是我们在两个小时内品尝的几道美食!

靠近夜市入口处的红花盐水鸡

Read quite a number of bloggers recommending boiled chicken with salt from Hong Hua. Hence we decided to try it out since I had never eaten such a dish in Taiwan before. There was a short queue around the stall, where we could pick on the items we fancy & get the cook to prepare it for us. Sounds like yong tau foo style eh? The queue moved rather fast & despite the crowd, the staff didn’t seem flustered & remained polite.

读到不少部落客推荐红花盐水鸡,所以在入口处不远就看到摊位,就心想,试试看吧,反正也从没尝过盐水鸡。红花摊位有一些客人在排队,还好不是太长。我们一边排队,一边挑选想吃的材料放进篮子里,感觉有点像新加坡点酿豆腐的情况。师傅会把我们选的食材,与盐水鸡一起煮。虽然有人潮,但摊主还是不慌不忙,手脚也挺快的,全程保持亲切友善的笑容。

After trying some of the items, I thought once is enough for such a dish, sorry. 😛 I don’t really enjoy eating cold stuff like chilled soba or cold noodles, except for cold desserts & drinks of course. Haha… Boiled Chicken With Salt (there’s other items inside the pack including their famous chicken meat) is also chilled, so it felt a bit weird to me eating savoury food cold. Price was pretty reasonable for quite a number of items at 135 TWD (~S$6.30). Temperature of food aside, the food items were flavourful & chicken meat was quite lean. In fact, I would think Hong Hua’s would suit those who love intense flavours in their food. 😉

边走边吃了这包盐水鸡后,我没有很喜欢。可以这样说,我对冰冷的食物如冷面、凉拌菜等没有多大兴趣,除了冷饮和甜品啦。这包盐水鸡给我的感觉就像冷面给我的感觉一样,吃起来很奇怪。我喜欢吃热腾腾的主食,而非这种低温的。不过,价钱还算蛮合理,只需台币135元。如果不介意吃这类型的菜色的话,红花盐水鸡的味道是不错,而且鸡肉也不肥腻。我想,红花盐水鸡应该会吸引喜欢重口味的顾客。

Lean Meat Bun
赤肉割包

This was another popular stall, Shi Jia Gua Bao, that many bloggers raved about, just a short distance away from Hong Hua. However, there was no queue when we saw the stall. The shop behind the stall was closed although the owner (?) was still around to tend the stall. 3 different choices of steamed bun to choose from here: Fatty Meat Bun, Lean Meat Bun & Combo (mixture of fatty & lean meat) Bun. Being weight/ health-conscious, we decided to order the Lean Meat Bun (50 TWD, ~S$2.35) to share. Frankly, I had expected something better than what we ate. The lean meat was a little tough at some parts, although I like the combination of pickled vegetables + some other green leafy vegetables, which made it crunchier & flavourful. Portion was pretty generous at such pricing.

石家割包是另一家许多部落客赞好的人气食店,距离红花只是一小段路。看到摊位时,没有其他客人。摊位后的店面没开,仅有一名职员(或是老板?)在等待客人的到来。这里有三种割包供选择:煌肉割包、赤肉割包和综合割包。怕吃得太肥的我们,当然是选择赤肉割包(台币50元)咯😁。不过,尝了几口后,有点失望。赤肉有点硬,虽然搭配咸菜等蔬菜使包子挺美味也更有嚼劲。以这个价钱来说,肉片也算蛮大块的。

So many people crowding around the no-signboard stall selling sweet potato balls
好多人围在这无招牌售卖地瓜球的摊位周围等待可口小吃

Saw the above no-signboard stall where an elderly man was busy preparing the sweet potato ball snack for customers eagerly waiting around. We couldn’t really find where to join the queue, & the owner seemed too preoccupied to want to entertain any questions from curious onlookers like us. I only heard him telling others “after this batch is sold out, you would need to wait longer to get the food”. Seeing such a big crowd around the stall, I reckoned I would have to wait for next batch, so I left without making any purchase. But the snack smelt really nice, what a pity…

我们也看到上图摄的这个无招牌摊位,只有一位老伯在忙碌地炸地瓜球。看不出队是从哪里排起,感觉好像所有人就围在一起,希望快点买到香喷喷的地瓜球。老伯也无暇应付顾客的样子,只听到他说“这一批卖完了,下一批要等很久。”这么多人在等,我想我应该没这么幸运可以吃到这一批吧,所以也就不等了。有点可惜吃不到这个看起来很香、热腾腾的小吃……

爱玉之梦游仙草的爱玉综合冰

I love Taiwanese desserts, including the slightly sourish aiyu jelly that is commonly added to bubble tea. So we hunted down this popular dessert shop, Ai Yu Zhi Meng You Xian Cao, along Tonghua Street based on online recommendations. The shop only uses wild jelly fig harvested in the Alishan region in its desserts, as well as make the grass jelly from scratch using traditional methods. Indeed, the grass jelly & jelly fig in our bowl of Aiyu Jelly Combo Ice (50 TWD, ~S$2.35) were very smooth & glided easily down the throat. But I thought the coloured tapioca balls were a bit tough & not chewy enough.

我很喜欢台湾甜品,包括常在甜品店可看到的带点微酸味的爱玉。因此,我们也跟着网络上的介绍,去寻找这家人气甜品店——爱玉之梦游仙草。这家位于通化街的小店只选用阿里山野生爱玉籽,也采用古早方法自制仙草冻。我们点的爱玉综合冰(台币50元)里的仙草与爱玉的确很顺滑。不过,五颜六色的粉圆不够Q,有点硬。

2. Gongguan Commercial District 公馆商圈

Spot the directional sign after exiting from MRT

Directions: From Gongguan MRT station (green Songshan-Xindian line), take exit 1 or 4 (elevator), & you will see the above signage shortly after leaving the station. Just follow the directions & you will see many food stalls along the street, where the commercial district/ night market is.

交通方式:从公馆捷运站(青色松山-新店线)1号或4号(有电梯)出口离开,就会看到上图的指示牌。照着指示牌方向去,沿途就会看到许多美食摊位,在街道两旁了。

公馆商圈,寻找隐藏在小巷里的各式美食

Gongguan Commercial District is located to the south of downtown. The district is home to a number of universities – National Taiwan University & National Taiwan Normal University, as well as a transport hub for students in other schools in the vicinity, Gongguan has become a popular commercial district for students to gather around. Besides many food stalls lining the small alleys in the district, there is also a myriad of shops from fashion to restaurants, arcades etc to keep the young & young at heart entertained. As we read that many stalls & shops would be closed on Monday, we only visited the commercial district on our last night in Taipei, which was a Tuesday.

公馆商圈坐落于台北市南部,靠近好几所学府,包括台湾大学以及国立师范大学。由于公馆是通往景美、木栅和新店的主要交通据点,因而成为许多景美女中、世新与政治大学等学生转乘巴士、捷运的地点。这些学生人潮为公馆带来了不少商机,是许多学生喜欢到来吃喝玩乐的地点。除了有许多小吃摊外,还可看到许多服饰店、餐馆、娱乐场所等。由于读到多数公馆的商家摊贩选择星期一休息,所以我们等到星期二,也是在台北的最后一晚才来这里逛。

素食地瓜球

Since I didn’t get to try the no-signboard stall selling popular sweet potato balls at Linjiang Night Market, I decided to try it here upon seeing that there was a queue as well. If there’s a queue, the food shouldn’t be that bad right? 😛 At least that’s what I thought. I ordered the small pack (20 TWD, ~S$0.95), with about 10 pieces inside. The sweet potato balls were quite crispy, but I thought it was too hollow inside. Would have preferred a more chewy texture like what we have in Singapore. Nonetheless, it was quite a good snack to munch on while waiting for my friend to grab her food at another stall.

既然前一天在临江夜市尝不到无招牌摊位的地瓜球,在公馆商圈看到这摊素食地瓜球有好几位顾客在排队,我也就加入队伍一起排了。有人排队的摊位,应该不会差到哪儿去吧?😅点了小份的地瓜球(台币20元),袋子里装了约10粒地瓜球。地瓜球好脆,但薄薄一片,里面空心的部分好像太多了吧。还是比较喜欢新加坡式的地瓜球,比较Q。但还是不错吃啦,在等朋友购买其它的食物时,很快就吃完了嘻嘻。

古早葱蛋饼

The queue in front of this traditional spring onion egg crepe stall was quite long. But being a spring onion fan, it didn’t deter my friend from queuing. In fact, even after I had already bought my snacks, she was still queuing. Fortunately, the traditional spring onion egg crepe (25 TWD, ~S$1.15) was worth the wait, as it was generously filled with spring onion & flavourful.

这家古早葱蛋饼摊位的人龙好长哦。朋友很喜欢青葱,所以也毫不犹豫加入排队行列。我买到地瓜球去找她时,都还得等一阵子,她才终于买到食物。幸好,这个等待是值得的,古早葱蛋饼(台币25元)馅料丰富,也很美味。

陈三鼎黑糖青蛙鲜奶创始店

Chen San Ding is a hugely popular shop in Gongguan Commercial District that many bloggers raved about. Having tried the uniquely Taiwan “frog hits milk” beverage in Taitung City’s night market, I was eager to try this legendary shop at Gongguan as well. It took us quite some time to be able to locate this shop, as it was hidden in 1 of the many small alleys (Luosifu Road Section 3) further away from Gongguan Station. I got a shock when we finally arrived & saw a long snaking queue in front of the small shop. But since we were already there, we decided to queue anyway.

陈三鼎黑糖青蛙鲜奶创始店是一家在公馆商圈的超人气商店,网上都是对它的青蛙撞奶的推荐。因为在台东市观光夜市初尝了青蛙撞奶这个台湾的特色饮料后对它欲罢不能,我满心期待地在公馆寻找陈三鼎的踪迹。店面离捷运站有一段距离,好不容易在罗斯福街三段的一条小巷找到它。终于找到时,看到店前的长长人龙下了一跳。既然千里迢迢才找到,无论如何也得排队吧。

Thankfully, there were at least 3 helpers at the shop serving customers, hence the queue moved pretty fast. Within 5 min of queuing, we had already laid our hands on a cup of the precious “frog hits milk” beverage (40 TWD, ~S$1.85). In case you don’t know what that is, it’s actually fresh milk with black sugar syrup served with tapioca balls (which are commonly known as “pearls”).

还好,店面有至少三名店员,手脚也熟练,所以人龙虽长,但还蛮快的。我们只花了5分钟的时间就买到各自珍贵的青蛙撞奶饮料(台币40元)。

Oh my! The beverage was really tasty! Milk was smooth, pearls so chewy & the black sugar syrup added an unique fragrance to the beverage. Although there was no indication of the brand of fresh milk being used, it was by no means inferior compared to the one I had in Taitung, which used the branded Chulu Fresh Milk. I can’t really say which is better, but the yummy feel is certainly worth the wait. 🙂 However, do note that Chen San Ding is closed every Monday.

这杯青蛙撞奶真的很好喝!鲜奶很顺滑,粉圆很Q弹,加入黑糖浆后的鲜奶更添独特的香味。不知道是使用什么牌子的牛奶,不过绝对不输台东市那杯选用上等初鹿鲜奶的青蛙撞奶。说不出谁的比较好喝,但这饱满香醇的滋味绝对值得为它排队。😀温馨提醒,陈三鼎每逢星期一休息。

3. Shida Night Market 师大夜市

Directions: From Taipower Building MRT Station, take exit 3 & walk along Shida Road for about 5 to 10 min before seeing the night market.

交通方式:从台电大楼捷运站3号出口,沿着师大路走约5到10分钟就会看到夜市。

Shida Night Market is quite near to Gongguan Commercial District, just 1 MRT stop away. But we didn’t take the MRT as we thought it would be good to just walk along the streets so that we could check out the shops in this district, so we walked down Luosifu Road (the main road where MRT station exit is). This isn’t my first time to the night market. I decided to return to Shida Night Market after the first visit in Sep 2012 because I thought it had a good mix of affordable clothing shops + good food (being near to National Taiwan Normal University). However, it seemed to me the night market is no longer as big as before, & I couldn’t seem to locate the Lantern Braised Food shop where I had a satisfying dinner then.

师大夜市与公馆商圈只有一个捷运站的距离。所以,我们没搭捷运去师大,而是选择从公馆走到师大,这样才可以沿着罗斯福街(捷运出口的大街)一路逛街道旁的商店。之前在2012年9月初次到访台北市时,已有到过师大夜市,相当喜欢夜市里有许多价钱合理的服饰店和小吃店,所以决定再次到访。不过,这次到访,觉得夜市规模好像缩小了,也找不到上次品尝到的那家很好吃的灯笼卤味店。

灯笼卤味

Since there were quite a number of braised food shops in the night market, we just picked the one that seemed to have more customers. 😛 Instead of eating in, we asked for takeaway. I think the guys tending the shop were pretty good salespeople, as they kept introducing us unique items which they claimed were must-tries. Hence, unknowingly we selected several items from the display rack to be cooked with the special braised sauce. The big pack of braised food costed us 185 TWD (~S$8.65)! Despite buying from a shop that doesn’t seem to be the one I tried 5 years ago, our braised food supper was still very delicious, even though the food had turned cold by the time we returned to the hotel. I particularly like the mountain vegetable that the guy kept trying to sell to us. 🙂

夜市里有好几家卤味店,就随便选了一家比较多人光顾的。这次,我们选择外带。感觉几位店员都是很好的行销员哦,一直推荐我们点一些较道地的食材。直到要付钱时,才惊觉我们好像点太多了(⊙﹏⊙),总共需付台币185元!幸好,等到回到饭店才享用这已变凉的卤味宵夜,还是很好吃,特别是几道店员推荐的食材,如山蔬。

We spent most of the time in Shida Night Market browsing clothing shops rather than finding food. 😛 Looking back, it seems that we didn’t feed our stomachs excessively with lots of good street food in the 3 places we visited over 2 nights, although we already felt full after tasting the above. Maybe age is catching up so metabolism has slowed down & we can’t eat as much anymore… oops! Anyway, it was a great experience exploring the more local night markets. Definitely good to find out more about the local culture through yummy street food. 🙂

在师大夜市的大部分时间,都在逛商店,没什么找美食😄。现在回想起来,我们在台北的两个晚上,并没有品尝到太多小吃,但却已经觉得蛮饱的。难道是因为上了年纪,所以新陈代谢也退化了?😏希望下次再到台北市,可以再去这些比较道地的夜市,通过美食更了解在地文化。😊

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