Taipei Nanjichang Night Market: Cheap & Good Nostalgic Eats (II) 台北南機場夜市:搜罗古早平价美食篇(II)

In my last post, I shared about my gastronomical journey at one of the most popular traditional street food night markets in Taipei – Ningxia Night Market [read more about the foodie adventure in this article: Taipei Ningxia Night Market: Cheap & Good Nostalgic Eats (I)]. Now, in this long overdue final instalment of my March Taiwan trip, let’s head out to Nanjichang Night Market (which means South Airport Night Market in Chinese), a traditional night market off the beaten tourist path but well-loved by the locals to hunt for more cheap & good local delights! 🙂

在上篇文章里,我带你到寧夏夜市搜罗古早平价美食【延伸阅读:台北寧夏夜市:搜罗古早平价美食篇(I)。碍于家里有事,一直到现在,才终于能够完成我三月份台湾行的最后一篇文章,带你一起前往台北萬華區的南機場夜市大快朵颐去。南機場夜市或许不是观光客熟知的台北夜市之一,但它绝对是在地饕客喜爱的平价古早味美食聚集的地点,现在就开始这趟美食之旅吧!😋

How To Get There 交通指南

The compact Nanjichang Night Market packed with yummy local delights
南機場夜市腹地虽不大,但聚集台北市许多难得的平价美食

Located in old Taipei City’s Wanhua District, Nanjichang Night Market is not near any MRT station, thus making access to the night market for foreign travellers a bit more difficult. However, there are many buses that will bring you to Nanjichang Apartment bus stop, which is just in front of the compact night market: #12, 204, 205, 212, 212 (express), 223, 249, 250, 253, 670, 671, 673 & Blue 29. I downloaded the Taipei Bus Information & Transit System app on my mobile when I was there & could find the most convenient bus to bring me to Nanjichang quickly from Hotel Relax 2 [read my review of the hotel stay here: Another Relaxing Stay @Hotel Relax 2 near Taipei Main Station] where I stayed for 2 nights.

南機場夜市位于台北较古老的萬華區,并不靠近任何捷运站,对外国观光客来说也许并非能轻易探访的夜市。尽管如此,要前往南機場夜市还算是蛮方便的,因为只要乘搭台北公车到南機場公寓站,就可看到“麻雀虽小,但五脏俱全”的南機場夜市入口。公车站的服务车趟有逾10种:12、204、205、212、212(直)、223、249、250、253、670、671、673与蓝29号,所以其实想在台北逛一逛古早味浓郁的平价夜市还算是蛮方便的。这次我就特地在手机下载了“台北搭公车”这个APP,方便即时查询从旅樂序2館【延伸阅读:台北车站住宿篇:在旅樂序精品旅館享受快樂台北之旅搭哪趟公车最便捷抵达南機場。

You may refer to the Taipei Bus official website to plan your route too: http://www.taipeibus.gov.taipei/Dybus.aspx?Lang=En. It is less than 20 min / 10-stop ride from vicinity of Taipei Main Station, on buses such as 223, 249, 607.

如果不下载APP 的话,也可上台北公车官网查询:http://www.taipeibus.gov.taipei/Dybus.aspx。从台北车站附近搭公车到南機場的车程在20分钟以内,少过10个车站,选择也有好几趟,如223、249以及607号。

The Gastronomical Journey 美食之旅

Perpetrual long queue at the chicken rice shop near the night market signage
就在夜市招牌下的山内鸡肉店人气很高,一直都排着长长的人龙

As mentioned earlier, Nanjichang Night Market is not very big, but it is home to many palatable food popular with locals. Strictly speaking, it is not really a night market because shops are open in the day too, just that it will liven up as the night approaches. One of the highly recommended shops was the chicken rice shop pictured above, located at the entrance of the night market. Indeed, as I alighted the bus & approached the conspicuous night market signage, I could already see the shop packed with customers, with many queuing outside for a seat. It was always crowded whenever I passed by the shop throughout my time there. However, I didn’t join the queue as I was alone & thought I should leave my stomach for other foods instead of filling it full with one bowl of rice. 😛

如上文所提,南機場夜市比起其他夜市,规模很小,但却蕴藏着许多在地人爱吃的道地美食。严格来说,南機場不仅仅是个夜市,因为这里的摊贩白天就开始营业,只是入夜后更为热闹。其中一家网民强推的美食店就是上图可见的山内鸡肉店,就坐落于夜市醒目的招牌下。一下车走向夜市入口,就看到山内鸡肉店里外人潮满满,许多客人还得在店外排队等候入座。逛夜市时经过鸡肉店好几回,也都是客满的情况。不过,因为是独自逛夜市,怕一碗鸡肉饭下肚后就吃不下别的小吃,所以只好留到下次有机会再尝一尝这人气美食吧。

躲在南機場夜市一个角落的無名推車燒餅,超好吃的!

As I arrived at the night market just slightly after 6 pm, it wasn’t that crowded yet & I had the chance to slowly check out all the stalls before deciding what I wanted to try. After 1 round of window shopping, I decided to purchase a roasted long pancake (15 TWD, ~S$0.65) from this no-name stall at a corner of the night market. The charcoal-grilled pancake was so fragrant & delicious that I decided to come back for a second round to try its red bean pancake (12 TWD, ~S$0.55). The second try didn’t disappoint too, although I had to join a queue this time, probably because more people had knocked off from work & could come to grab a slice of this traditional goodness! See below for a short video clip I took of the pancakes being prepared fresh on the spot. 😉

由于抵达夜市时刚过傍晚6时,还不是太拥挤,所以我有时间可以慢慢逛,看看要到哪些摊位尝鲜。逛了一圈后,我决定先在位于夜市一个角落的無名推車燒餅买个长烧饼(15台币)解馋。这现场碳烤的长烧饼香气诱人,皮薄软弹很有嚼劲。长烧饼的美味指数让我忍不住在离开南機場夜市前再来这推车买个红豆饼(12台币)品尝。二度造访时虽然客人比较多了,还得排队,但甜而不腻,又烤的有点微焦的烧饼还是没让我失望。我也趁初次尝鲜时还没那么多人录制了摊主烤烧饼的一小段影片,让你看看这古早味平价美食的制作过程吧!😁

After the yummy snack, my stomach started to growl so I decided to find a place to sit down & enjoy a local dinner at Keelung Tempura Combination. This was another highly recommended stall that I found online which I thought was worth trying as I could choose the amount & variety I desired to eat. Moreover, it was similar to one of my favourite Singapore dishes – yong tau foo (Hakka Chinese cuisine consisting primarily of tofu filled with ground meat mixture or fish paste). So I selected 3 items: vegetable roll, fish tempura & glutinous rice roll (80 TWD, ~S$3.60) at the counter & sat down at the empty table in front of the stall for my dinner to be served.

品尝过香喷喷的小吃后,肚子开始咕噜作响,于是我就在夜市里找个可以坐下来好好享用晚餐的地方,品尝基隆黑輪綜合甜不辣。这摊道地台湾小吃也是许多网民推荐的美食之一。由于这道小吃的分量可自行选择多寡,又与我喜爱的新加坡美食——客家酿豆腐类似,所以我也就跃跃一试。到摊位前选了三道菜:菜卷、甜不辣和糯米肠(80台币)后就找个方便的位子坐下来期待我的晚餐上桌了。😊

This was a really satisfying sit-down dinner, despite a no-frills setting by the roadside. Nonetheless it was filled with nostalgic goodness at a really wallet-friendly price. If you are game for spicy food, don’t forget to dip your food in the special chilli, which will definitely give the kick! 😉 I was caught unaware of its spiciness & coughed so badly after tasting some chilli. But thanks to a lady sitting at the same table as me, I regained my composure after she passed me some tissue & soup to stop the cough. I felt grateful to the lady who was not related to me yet offered a helping hand. 🙂

纵使基隆黑輪綜合甜不辣没有华丽花俏的餐厅装潢,但真的没有后悔到这儿享用晚餐,因为价格不只亲民,还带有浓郁的古早好滋味。喜欢吃辣的朋友切记要醮摊主特制的辣椒酱,因为辣劲十足!刚开始吃的时候,一个不小心,就被辣椒呛到咳个不停。幸好与我同桌的一名好心女顾客看我咳得这么厉害,立即递上纸巾与汤品。独自出门在外,还能遇到好心人,倍感窝心。😊

Traditional Taiwanese beverage stall

After 2 stalls of good food, I was thirsty & wanted to gulp a cup of icy cold beverage asap. When in Taiwan, pearl milk tea is often seen as the must-try beverage, & yes, there were plenty of such beverage stalls in the night market. However, it was night time & I didn’t want to risk losing my beauty sleep after drinking the caffeine. Hence, I opted for an iced cup of fresh milk with pearls instead from the above stall, at just 35 TWD (~S$1.60). While it was nothing elaborate, it was one of my last few opportunities for a traditional cup of Taiwanese goodness before I returned to Singapore the next day! 😂

连续品尝了两摊超美味的小吃之后,开始觉得渴了,好想快点来点冰凉的饮料解渴。如果说台湾的经典饮料是珍珠奶茶,应该不会引发太多异议,而南機場夜市里也有不少这类饮料摊贩。可是,由于已是晚上,我不敢喝茶,以免累了也睡不着觉,所以决定喝杯同样是台湾特有的青蛙奶(35台币)来解渴。这杯青蛙奶虽称不上是什么绝世饮料,也还👌啦。反正我隔天就要飞回新加坡了,也没多少机会品尝道地饮料了!

Another popular stall in the night market – Master Yu Shanghai Pan-fried Pork Bun
南機場夜市又一摊人气美食

I only consumed food & beverage from 3 stalls as above & already felt so full it was impossible to stuff 1 more pan-fried pork bun into my stomach. What a pity! Otherwise I would gladly try the above Master Yu Shanghai Pan-fried Pork Bun as I could see the stall consistently lined with customers waiting to sink their teeth into the fragrant buns. Noticed that each bun only cost 15 TWD (~S$0.65), & you could get 1 free for every 5 pieces purchased, really cheap! Must try it next time! 😉

只品尝了上述三摊的小吃与饮料,肚子就撑到感觉容不下多一个生煎包了。好可惜哦!经过这钰师傅上海生煎包摊位时,那香味扑鼻而来,怪不得客源络绎不绝。一个生煎包只需15台币,买五个送一个,好经济实惠哦。下次一定要尝一尝!😋

As the night was still young (before 9 pm), I walked around the night market a few times, just to make sure I didn’t miss out any tantalising cheap & good eats before leaving. Finally, I settled on a small pack of popcorn chicken snack (40 TWD, ~S$1.80) pictured above to pack as supper in the hotel as I realised it’s been a while since I laid hands on Taiwanese fried chicken. 😛 The snack tasted like something we could prepare at home, prepared in an unassuming stall that you might even miss if you were in a hurry. 😂 I wouldn’t say it was a wonderful choice but it was nonetheless comfort food packed generously for the amount I paid.

由于时间还早,我虽然很饱,但还是继续在夜市游荡好几回,以免错过任何隐藏的古早平价美食。离开前,终于决定买上图可见的一小份碳烤盐酥鸡(40台币)回旅店当宵夜,因为好像好久没尝台湾炸鸡了。😜 盐酥鸡的味道就像是自己家里烹煮的一样,而这号称”台湾第一家碳烤盐酥鸡“的摊贩也朴实无华。如果没仔细留意,应该就会错过了。😂 纵使盐酥鸡的味道还好而已,但只付40台币,分量却如此多,也算是平价解馋小吃吧。

Post-trip thoughts 南機場夜市游后记

While the scale of Nanjichang Night Market was nowhere near other touristy night markets such as Shilin, Raohe or even Ningxia, it was a great foodie trip I didn’t regret making. Everything in Taipei, including food, is comparatively more expensive than in other parts of the island, but over at Nanjichang, I could still find many cheap & good traditional street food to sink my teeth into. Total damage was only 182 TWD (~S$8.20) from 4 stalls, similar to my expenditure at Ningxia Night Market.

比起观光客众多的士林夜市、饶河夜市,甚至是寧夏夜市,南機場夜市的规模可谓小巫见大巫。尽管如此,我并没后悔前往南機場夜市尝鲜。在台北消费,包括饮食,一般都比台湾其他县市昂贵,可是我却在南機場搜罗到不少价廉物美的道地台湾美食。在南機場夜市的4家摊贩的花费总计182台币,与在寧夏夜市的消费相同,亲民的价格却有暖心的饱足感。

So stop lamenting that it’s hard to find cheap & good food in Taipei at night & make your way to Nanjichang Night Market soon! 😉

因此,下次到访台北,不要再说逛夜市难找到古早平价美食了,到南機場夜市就行了!😉

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